California - the place that is synonymous with US wine. California produces the majority of the wine in the United States, both fine wine and cheap box wine. Some of it is actually good, although not necessarily the same as what markets well.

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California Wine Labels

Like much of the United States, California wine labels are barely regulated by the government, and the believability of the information on the label is dependent mostly on the trustworthiness of the producer. In general, regulations stipulate that if a wine claims it's from California, the grapes must come from somewhere in California. If a specific government-recognized American Viticultural Area (AVA) is named, it ought to have most of it's grapes from the named region (75-85%; most is not the same as all). Similarly, if a vintage is claimed, most of the grapes must be of the named vintage, and if a varietal is named, most of the grapes must be of that varietal. If a producer claims he "Produced and Bottled" the wine, then he must have grown most of the grapes, although weaker statements like "Made and Bottled" permit as low as 10% home-grown grape content.

These guidelines, of course, aren't terribly binding, but are generally adhered to by reputable producers. Not that they are very strong either, as you may note from the constant use of the word "most" in the preceeding paragraph. Most is not the same thing as all, and generally means 75%. That means that your "Napa Valley" wine may contain up to 25% of non Napa Valley grapes.

Since Marketing is important in the US, California wines often come with all sorts of amusing names that make it hard to tell what the wine actually is. For instance, Sauvignon Blanc is a boring name, because it's the name of an actual grape. Since Marketing thinks that French-sounding names sell better, many producers call it "Fume Blanc" instead (this name was supposedly coined by Robert Mondavi, who found that the renaming livened lackluster sales immediately). Similarly, simply calling a wine a Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend is too boring, so Marketing decides to call it "Meritage" instead (as an aside, Mertiage has been in use long enough to have acquired more meaning; it is understood to designate a mostly Cabernet/Merlot blend in the Bordeaux style).

The lack of regulation and the extreme sparsity of reliable label information (in comparison with European systems) makes it challenging to buy Californian wines that you are not familiar with. It is very difficult to know what to expect from the label alone. The usual trade publications and reviews help to some extent if you are willing to keep up with them.

This dependence on good reviewers for high end wine has led to the unusual phenomenon of the Cult Wine. If the producer is sufficiently small, and if Robert Parker (a famous/infamous and widely published wine critic) likes it, it may achieve the status of a "cult" wine, which is a great way to get people to buy wine grown in someone's backyard for several hundred dollars a bottle. "Spot the Fad" is a fun game to play with the California wine market, as unknown winemakers suddenly fetch astronomical prices following a favorable review from the right people.

In recent years, however, California has been superceded by Australia for hip and trendy marketing. The Aussies have kangaroos and other generally edgier labels which supposedly appeals to a younger audience. Australian wines are at least mercifully cheap.

What's Where

Production of fine wines in California is concentrated in the two famous regions of Napa Valley and Sonoma County, both a few hours north of the San Francisco Bay Area.

Napa Valley is California's most famous wine region. Well-known locations within Napa Valley include Rutherford, Stags Leap District, St. Helena, Howell Mountain, and others.

Sonoma contains several well-known subregions, including Russian River, Alexander, and Glen Ellen.

The famous Carneros AVA straddles both Napa and Sonoma.

Wine is also made in Mendocino, Monterey, Santa Cruz, Temecula, the Sierra foothills, San Joaquin, and other regions scattered throughout the state.

Zinfandel and its Bastard Son

One of California's best kept secrets is the Zinfandel grape. Nobody knows exactly where the grape originates from; one theory holds that it originates from Eastern Europe; another claims that it is the same as the Primitivo grape from Italy. In any case, Zinfandel has truly taken root in California, and from it the finest, most original wines in California are made.

If you didn't know already, Zinfandel is a red grape. That's right, it's red. Very red. Not pink. It is very bold, rich, and intense, with a spicy flavor and strong, jammy fruit texture.

However, and unfortunately so, what most Americans know as Zinfandel is White Zinfandel. White Zinfandel is actually a very recent development. It was invented in 1972 by Bob Trinchero at the Sutter Home winery as a by product of an experiment. Trinchero was attempting to create a richer red Zinfandel, so he drew off some of the (white) juice before it had a chance to acquire the red color, in hopes that reducing the free run juice will concentrate the remainder. Not having anything to do with the extra juice, he made it as a rose wine and sold it as a novelty wine. It became very popular very quickly, and within a couple decades White Zinfandel, made intentionally, became Sutter Home's primary production.

As a result, White Zinfandel now outpaces red Zinfandel production by orders of magnitude. In fact, it is the second highest selling varietal wine in the United States, after only Chardonnay. It tends to be light and sweet, the closest thing in the wine world to soda, and is nothing like the rich and lively red Zinfandel.

What this means for you is that since most people would wonder aloud "Huh? Zinfandel is Red?!" Red Zinfandel prices are lower than they should be for a wine of such high caliber. While California can produce Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and other "conventional" varietals, it is in Zinfandel that California truly shines, and you can actually afford these wines. Drink a bottle today!

The Tasting of Paris

In 1976, history was made when the best wines of Medoc (in French Bordeaux) were beaten in a blind tasting conducted in Paris by French judges by two Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa Valley. France's greatest wine experts gathered at the Intercontinental Hotel for a blind tasting of French and Californian wines. The top spot for white wines went to a 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from California, and California took 3 of the top 4 spots in the tasting. But more importantly, California also won the red wine tasting, pitting it against the best wines of Bordeaux: the 1973 Stag's Leap Cabernet took the top spot, besting First-Growths Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The 1971 Ridge Montebello Cabernet came in the top 5 as well.

Needless to say, the French were not happy: French experts at a French wine tasting had pronounced Californian wines as better than the best of Bordeaux. This event, which received tremendous press for its unthinkable result, established that California could produce world-class wines. This led to an explosion in the California fine wine industry, as people started taking California wines seriously.

Oh, and contrary to popular mythology, Robert Mondavi had nothing to do with this. While the Mondavi name is one of the biggest names in fine wine, and Mondavi is a tireless advocate for high-end production in California (since before the Paris tasting), his wines weren't featured in that tasting. It's also worth noting that the real Mondavi family winery is the Charles Krug Winery (which is still run by the Mondavi family); Robert Mondavi left Krug to go his own way.

So, while a lot of Californian wine is still unremarkable cheap stuff, remember than they can produce world-class wines, and the reason we don't see more of it on supermarket shelves is because Americans have no taste and buy whatever's cheapest.

A Word on Jug Wine

You will see large quantities of extremely cheap wine for sale under brands like Gallo, Peter Vella, Franzia, and so on, with names like "Mountain Chablis" and "Hearty Burgundy." Naturally, at these prices one does not expect the highest of quality, but how bad can it be?

First, the names are somewhat deceptive. If you've read my other pages, you'll know that, for example, Burgundy comes from Bourgogne in France and is made exclusively of the Pinot Noir grape, and that Chablis comes from the northern edge of Bourgogne and is made exclusively of the Chardonnay grape with no oak. However, in addition to not being from France, "Hearty Burgundy" is not made from Pinot Noir, nor is "Mountain Chablis" made from Chardonnay. They are not even made from the same grapes, and they taste nothing like the finer wines that they're named after. By analogy, this is like taking Velveeta (cheese from a squeeze bottle) and labeling it as "French Brie" - neither French nor Brie cheese.

So just how bad is it? Very bad. On a good day, you might be compelled to cook something with it, but never to drink it. By spending slightly more, you can enjoy excellent real bargain wines that are vastly more enjoyable. Do yourself a favor and avoid these wines.

What's Good

Red Zinfandel is a California specialty, and the better producers have made a truly remarkable and original wine that's both exciting and serious. Cline Cellars of Sonoma is a good winery specializing in Zinfandel and Rhone varietals. They control century-old Zinfandel vines and make excellent wine from it. Ravenswood is another well-known Zinfandel specialist; they make a wide variety of vineyard-sourced and county-level Zinfandel.

On a good day, the better California wineries can produce good Bordeaux style Cabernet Sauvignon. Many lower end Chardonnays taste rather fat and bloated due to overuse of oak, but there are good surprises.

Wine Comments

White Woodbridge (Robert Mondavi), Chardonnay 2002 (California)
Very plump and round, with apple, grape, and heavy oak.
$8 / bottle

White Chateau St. Jean, Fume Blanc 2000 (Sonoma County)
Grassy and woody flavors, some citrus, prominent pepper and spice, but still somewhat restrained and muted. Too much oak.
$15 / bottle

White Jekel, "Gravelstone" Chardonnay 2000 (Monterey)
Very sharp tropical fruit, light oak and herbal notes. Crisp and lean.
$12 / bottle

White Beckmen Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (Santa Ynez Valley)
Very tart and sharp, with a strong mixed greens and grass essence. Heady.
$13 / bottle

White Lambert Bridge, Chardonnay 1999 (Sonoma County)
Round with very heavy oak and deep buttery texture. A fat wine.
$18 / bottle

White Clos Du Bois, Sauvignon Blanc 2000 (North Coast)
Tangerine and other tropical citrus with pineapple. Heavy oak. Minimal herbal flavors with some floral fragrances.
$9 / bottle

White Kendall-Jackson, "Vintner's Reserve" Chardonnay 2001 (California)
Strong, creamy apple, pineapple, and pear fruit with lively oak. Relatively bright.
$10 / bottle

White Turning Leaf, "Coastal Reserve" Chardonnay 2000 (North Coast)
Fat and buttery. Very wet mouthfeel. Undistinguished fruit masked by oak.
$9 / bottle

White Mount Eden Vineyards, "Edna Valley MacGregor Vineyard" Chardonnay 1999 (Edna Valley)
Very creamy and buttery, with moderately heavy oak, with citrus and pineapple. Strong.
$20 / bottle

White Atlas Peak Vineyards, Chardonnay 2000 (Atlas Peak)
Strong apple and pear flavors. Very crisp. Light to moderate oak.
$15 / bottle

White Fetzer, "Sundial" Chardonnay 2000 (California)
Grape and apple flavors, extremely strong oak, buttery texture, slight spice hints. Oak is overwhelmingly strong.
$12 / bottle

White Pine Ridge, Chenin Blanc / Voignier 2001 (California)
Fruity, melon flavors, rather light, short finish, dry. Palatable with food.
$11 / bottle

White Martin Weyrich, "Allegro" Moscato 2003 (California)
Very crisp, with well defined melon and peach. Good.
$11 / bottle

Red Cline Cellars, Zinfandel 1999 (California)
Very strong, very intense and rich, with a long, bold finish. Spicy flavor, solid jammy fruit. Excellent bargain.
$10 / bottle

Red Hanna, Zinfandel 2000 (Alexander Valley)
Earthy and leathery tones, opening to bold, simple fruit. Very dry, slightly astringent. Very jammy fruit.
$19 / bottle

Red Ravenswood, Zinfandel 1999 (Mendocino)
Spicy, lively mouthfeel with some restrained jammy fruit. Enthusiastic nose.
$16 / bottle

Red Clos du Bois, "Alexander Valley Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Alexander Valley)
Very spicy and smoky flavor, but only medium intensity. Noticable oak, rather reserved, young tasting, with a nice finish.
$24 / bottle

Red Geyser Peak, Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Sonoma)
Extremely fruity, with mildly spicy oak and green peppers. Young.
$17 / bottle

Red MacMurray Ranch, Pinot Noir 2002 (Sonoma Coast)
Big nose, plump fruity impression, heavy wood. Pleasantly medium-bodied.
$15 / bottle

Red Ravenswood, Amador County Old Vine Zinfandel 2001 (Amador County)
Rich intense berry, supple tannin, moderate oak and vanilla and blackberry. Excellent and accessible.
$17 / bottle

Red Wild Horse, Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Paso Robles)
Abundant plummy fruit, full body, light oak, with touches of incense. Smooth, pleasant, and easy-drinking.
$19 / bottle

Red Estancia, "Keyes Canyon Ranches" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Paso Robles)
Strong blackcurrant fruit and young tannins, but simple oak.
$12 / bottle

Red Alexander Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (Alexander Valley)
Supple berry over delicate woods and incense. Rich and mellow tannins. Powerful but not overwhelming.
$16 / bottle

Red Edna Valley Vineyard, "Paragon" Pinot Noir 2001 (Edna Valley)
Thick, bloody juice with mushroom, earth, and wood. Feels like a Spanish wine.
$18 / bottle

Red Castle Rock, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2002 (Russian River Valley)
Soft and somewhat round mouthfeel, with hints of roses, incense, and chocolate. A potpourri of sweet spices. Bargain.
$11 / bottle

Red Asti Winery, "Cellar No. 8" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (North Coast)
Dark, vivid fruit over very heavy oak. Somewhat soft. Drink young.
$13 / bottle

Red HRM Rex Goliath, "Free Range" Merlot NV (Central Coast)
Soft fruit and bright peppery tannins. A little light. Good food wine.
$8 / bottle

Red Kendall-Jackson, "Vintner's Reserve" Merlot 2000 (California)
Strong bell pepper and black pepper flavors, with heavy wood spice. Very dark fruit.
$14 / bottle

Red Mirassou, Merlot 2002 (California)
Heavy oak and smoky flavors with flat fruit. A weak wine trying to be something bolder.
$10 / bottle

Red Beringer, "Founder's Estate" Merlot 1999 (California)
Restrained black pepper taste with juicy fruit and berries. Very wet and slick.
$10 / bottle

Red Clos Du Bois, Merlot 2000 (Sonoma)
Thin texture, with zippy spice and moderately heavy oak flavors. Short finish. Unremarkable.
$15 / bottle

Red Beaulieu Vineyard, "Coastal" Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (California)
Very forward, jammy fruit with heavy plum flavors. Light wood.
$9 / bottle

Red Simi, Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 (Sonoma)
Restrained, with a floral fragrance and black and bell pepper notes over a slight earthiness. Very long finish. Bordeaux style.
$19 / bottle

Rose Sutter Home, White Zinfandel 2001 (California)
Light and sweet, somewhat flat. Light grape skin and white grape flavor.
$4 / bottle

Red Gallo, "Twin Valley Hearty Burgundy" NV (California)
Light smoky flavor. Light in general. Very weak, no finish. Neither hearty nor burgundy.
$10 / 1.5L