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In Italy, wine with food is a way of life. Italians have been making wine for thousands of years, and know a thing or two about enjoying it. There's nothing quite like a loud Italian dinner with great food and friends, where everyone is slightly more animated than usual from the four glasses (each) of Chianti.

There are also great practical advantages to Italian wine, mostly due to the popularity and abundance of good Italian restaurants in the United States. What else but Italian wine for your Italian dinner?

Wine quality in Italy has improved dramatically over the last century or so, when Italians decided to export competitive fine wine. In the past, the focus was on making a whole lot of wine from whatever was available so the entire family can get drunk and argue loudly at dinner, so the wine was relatively unremarkable (with exceptions, of course). Modern Chianti is much bolder and zestier than old Chianti (the blend proportions have changed: it used to be nearly a third white wine, and now it is almost entirely red Sangiovese), because of the modern focus on really getting quality from the grapes instead of just making a whole lot of wine.

Italian Wine Labels

Compared to France and Germany, which make sense after a while, deciphering an Italian label is black magic. Italian wines may be labelled in several different ways, instead of the region-first rule that dominates most of Europe.

First, like the rest of Europe, Italian wines may be labelled by the region they come from. For example, Chianti and Soave are named by the region.

The wines may also be labelled by the grape variety. Barbera and Pinot Grigio are grape varieties, and you may see wine labelled as such. Sometimes you will also see a region designation appended, like d'Asti or di Montalcino.

The wine may also be labelled by a traditional name, which tells you absolutely nothing. You may see these labelled as "Est! Est! Est!" or "Vino Nobile" because that's what people have been calling it for hundreds of years. There are often great stories about how these names came to be, but every winemaker tells a completely different version, and likely none of them are true.

You can also find wines with trademarked names, like "Rubesco" or "Summus." These also mean absolutely nothing except that some marketing weenie thought it sounded good. Unlike the traditionally-named wines, they haven't been around as long (and thus aren't as cool) and can be used by only one producer.

On top of all this, there are the regulatory designations, which can apply to any of the labelling types above. The regulatory designation is often the only mark of sanity on the label, but even that doesn't help much. The possible designations are:

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)
This is the top designation; it means that the wine was made using appropriately traditional methods and appropriately traditional grapes (for weak definitions of traditional; current Chianti is quite unlike the Chianti of a hundred years ago). DOCG wines must also pass a taste test by the government regulators.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)
This means that the wine is basically what it claims to be, assuming you can decipher the label. The wine must be produced in the usual manner using the usual grapes and methods that are appropriate to the wine and region.
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)
This is the designation for quality wine that isn't DOC or DOCG, usually because of the use of nontraditional methods or grapes. A region is named somewhere.
Vino da Tavola
This is the lowest grade table wine, with no interesting designations whatsoever.

Grape Varieties

Italy grows varietals that are grown nowhere else (well, almost nowhere, although Sangiovese has become fashionable among New World winemakers wanting to do Something Different) in the world.

Don't concern yourself too much with these, as you'll be buying by label name anyway. The two most interesting ones are Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, which are used to make good red wine.

Wine Regions

Italy has many wine-growing regions, but three areas stand out for producing the finest wines of Italy.

The region of Tuscany, around the city of Florence, is famous for producing red wines, primarily from the Sangiovese grape. The most famous wine from Tuscany is the most famous wine from all Italy: Chianti. You will also hear of other famous Tuscan wines, including Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Carmignano. There are also the non-traditional "Super-Tuscans," bold experimental red wines that are often highly regarded.

The region of Piedmont, in Northern Italy close to the French border, produces the greatest variety of fine wine in Italy. This is where the red Barolo and Barbaresco come from, as well as the sparkling Asti.

Lastly, the regions around Venice are well known for producing white wines, including Soave and Pinot Grigio.

The Wine

What follows is a very non-exhaustive list of the more common types of Italian wine you're likely to encounter.

Chianti (Tuscany)
Chianti is a Sangiovese-based red wine and is easily the best known wine of Italy. The region of Chianti is broken down into several subregions; the best known are Chianti Classico (supposedly the best and most traditional) and Chianti Rufina. The winemaker's consortium in Chianti uses a black rooster sign as a symbol of quality, so you should look for it. Chianti that is labelled as "Reserva" must have been aged at least three years.
Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany)
Brunello is a Sangiovese variant that is grown in Montalcino. This wine must be aged a full four years to qualify (five for Reserva).
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany)
This "Noble Wine of Montelpulciano" is a blend of several grapes, of which Sangiovese is dominant.
Barolo (Piedmont)
This wine, made entirely from Nebbiolo, is a very rich and complex red wine, if occasionally too tannic and astringent. The Barolo region is tiny.
Barbaresco (Piedmont)
More Nebbiolo-based wine, and a bit more balanced and harmonious than Barolo. The Barbaresco region is also tiny.
Moscato d'Asti (Piedmont)
This is a very light (6% alcohol), slightly effervescent white wine from the Asti region, made from Moscato grapes. It's more a fun party wine than a stern and serious wine.
Asti (Piedmont)
This is sparkling wine from Asti made from Moscato. It is made sweeter than French Champagne. You may also see this called Asti Spumante or just Spumante
Soave (Veneto)
Created in Venice (well, near Venice) from Trebbiano and other grapes, this white wine has a more floral fragrance and is one of the most popular Italian export wines.
Pinot Grigio (mostly Northern Italy)
This varietal produces a light, dry white wine. It is also known as Pinot Gris, and is widely grown outside Italy (especially California) because it has a cool name.
Barbera (mostly Piedmont and Lombardy)
A medium body, fruity red wine
Super-Tuscan (Tuscany)
This is nontraditional red wine made in a more international style (bigger and more forward), often from a blend of several varieties including Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. While some of these wines are of top international quality, they cannot qualify for DOC or DOCG designation because they operate outside the rules.

Red Wines

Red Banfi, Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 (DOCG Chicanti Classico)
Rich and spicy, with leather, tobacco, and tar notes and firm tannin. Big and very smooth.
$17.50 / bottle

Red Castello Banfi, Chianti Classico Riserva 1998 (DOCG Chianti Classico)
Bold fruit impression followed with a strong spicy flavor. Very strong and long finish, with moderate astringency. Very dry. Has wood flavor closer to incense than oak. Good.
$16 / bottle

Red Castello Banfi, Col di Sasso Toscana 1999 (IGT Tuscany)
Fruity and spicy, somewhere between merlot and cabernet in flavor, but fruitier. Dry, long finish, and rather astringent. Medium body. This is a young wine and is sonewhat soft. Blend is 50/50 sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon.
$10 / bottle

Red Podere il Palazzino, "La Pieve" Chianti Classico 2000 (DOCG Chianti Classico)
Dense earthy and vegetal flavors with wood vanilla. Lively on the tongue but not too astringent.
$13 / bottle

Red Aldegheri, "Le Pietre" Santambrogio (IGT Rosso Veronese)
Dark crushed peppers over wood incense, with plum, currant, and bell pepper. Rich, smooth, and contemplative claret-style wine.
$15 / bottle

Red Fattoria del Cerro, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 1999 (DOCG Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano)
Rich jammy fruit in spicy incense. Very dry but lively. A dark potpourri of flavor.
$23 / bottle

Red Salcheto, Chianti Colli Senesi 2000 (DOCG Chiant Colli Senesi)
Deep plum and incense aromas, filled with smoke and barbeque. Moderate to heavy and chewy tannins but still very smooth.
? / 375ml

Red Masseria del Pilone, Primitivo di Salento 2000 (IGT Salento)
Extremely fruity, featuring strong berry flavors. Pleasant but rather simple, and tending toward softness. Long finish.
$8 / bottle

Red Luna di Luna, Merlot Cabernet (60/40) 2001 (IGT Delle Venezie)
Moderately heavy pepper and spice, with faint plump fruit. Rather thin, fleeting, and insubstantial finish.
$10 / bottle

Red Elvio Cogno, Dolcetto d'Alba 2000 (DOC Alba)
Bold fruity flavor with mint undertones. Dry with ridiculously long finish. Amusing vegetal flavors. Certain to be unusual.
$18 / bottle

Red Michele Chiarlo, "Le Orme" Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2002 (DOC Barbera d'Asti)
Round fruit, moderate stemmy tannins with light leather and raisin notes.
$12 / bottle

Red Castello di Fonterutoli, "Foggio alla Badiola" 2002 (IGT Toscana)
Bloody yet smooth, fragrant woods over ripened grape skin. Soft and well structured.
$15 / bottle

Red Villa Doria, Barolo 1997 (DOCG Barolo)
Spicy earthy and very floral flavor, like roses and tulips. Long dry finish with oak aftertaste. Very complex. Excellent.
$20 / bottle

Red Tommasi Viticoltori, "Vigneto Rafael" Valipolicella Classico Superiore 2000 (DOC Valipolicella Classico Superiore)
Sharp and bloody attack, with tar and leather. Very drying. Moderate finish.
$13 / bottle

White and Sparkling Wines

White Bollini, Pinot Grigio 2001 (DOC Trentino)
Moderate grassy flavor with light citrus fruit. Sharp acid. Pleasant.
$10 / bottle

White Casalfarneto, "Fontevecchia" Verdicchio del Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2002 (DOC Verdicchio del Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore)
Very crisp and clean, with light apple, melon, and apricot flavors . High acid but pleasant.
$13 / bottle

White Rashi, Moscato d'Asti 2005
Sweet and fruity nectarine, orange, and honey flavors. Pleasant.
$13 / bottle

White Arnaldo Caprai "Grecante" Grechetto del Colli Martani 2006 (DOC Colli Martani)
Heady and lively tropical flavors. Dry and crisp.
$17 / bottle

White San Silvestro, "Dulcis" Moscato d'Asti 2006 (DOCG Moscato d'Asti)
Pleasantly sweet peachy fruit, otherwise unexceptional.
$11/ bottle

White Frattina, Pinot Grigio 2002 (DOC Lison-Pramaggiore / Veneto)
Heavy and woody, with slight citrus tones. Soft texture.
$15 / bottle

White Falesco, Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone 2000 (DOC Montefiascone)
Light grassy flavor with tropical fruit giving way instantly to cream. Light.
$9 / bottle

White Banfi (Vigne Regalia) "Principessa Gavia" Perlante, Gavi 2003 (DOCG Gavi)
Very bracing acidity, with a lively mouthfeel over melon, apple, peach, and rose.
$16 / bottle

White Bartenura, Moscato d'Asti 2003 (DOCG Asti)
Light and fizzy, with very sweet peach and apricot with a touch of mineral.
$12 / bottle

White Banfi (Vigne Regali) "Principessa Gavia" Perlante, Gavi 2000 (DOCG Gavi)
Sparkling wine with unusual earthy and herbal flavors. Strong initial fruit impression featuring pineapple, giving way to grape. Off-dry, very pleasant, a good apertif wine.
$17 / bottle

White Pieropan, Soave Classico 2002 (DOC Soave Classico)
Green apples over a buttery texture and a healthy dash of citrus. Very crisp and clean.
$15 / bottle

White Michele Chiarlo, "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti 2003 (DOCG Moscato d'Asti)
Syrupy sweet melon with a touch of woodiness. Fat.
$10 / 375ml

White Bartenura, Moscato 2006 (IGT Provincia di Pavia)
Effervescent peach and honey, thin fruit, short finish.
$13 / bottle

White Bartenura, Moscato d'Asti 2001 (DOCG Asti)
Very melony fruit, very sweet, almost syrup in texture. More like a good dessert wine.
$10 / bottle

White Marchesi di Barolo, "Le Lune" Gavi 2001 (DOCG Gavi)
Light and herbal, followed by a layer of butter and cream. Grape skins, apple, and starfruit. Very green.
$12.50 / bottle

White La Spinetta, Vigneto Biancospino, Moscato d'Asti 2001 (DOCG Asti)
Extremely light but very sweet. Effervescent sensation and strong honey/melon flavors and low subjective acidity. Like soda, but better.
$13 / bottle