Wines of New York

Although not as well known for wine as Napa and Sonoma of California, the Empire State can produce competitive high quality wines. Featured most prominently is the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York, a land of rolling hills and deep gorges dominated by a half dozen very large, very narrow, very deep lakes. Vineyards dot the coastline up and down these lakes, especially Cayuga and Seneca. It's a beautiful, if somewhat isolated, land, with nothing of great interest except spectacular natural beauty, Cornell University, and some of the best Riesling grown in the United States.

What's Grown

White wine dominates the fine wine production of the Finger Lakes. In particular, the Riesling grape is widely cultivated and comprises the bulk of the Finger Lakes' finest wines. The cold climate and steep hills and gorges are quite similar to the Mosel Valley in Germany, where Riesling is perfected. Finger Lakes growers also experiment with other white vinifera varietals, including Gewurztraminer, Seyval Blanc, and Chardonnay.

Elsewhere in New York, a lot of non-vinifera grapes are grown, especially of the Niagara and Concord varieties. Most of these grapes are used to make jam, although a small amount is used to make wine.

At their best, the Rieslings of the Finger Lakes can hold up against a good QmP German Riesling, the gold standard in fine Riesling. You should take this to mean that some of them are excellent. More typically, on the lower end, the Riesling is pleasant but unimpressive. Most are fermented completely dry, in contrast to standard German practise. The other varietals are not as well developed, but may show promise from time to time.

The red wines of New York are nothing spectacular.

What's Good

Of all the winemakers of the Finger Lakes, Hermann J. Wiemer is widely regarded as being among the finest producers in the European style. His wines stack up well to those of Germany. Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars is the oldest vinifera fine wine producer in the Finger Lakes. Bully Hill Vineyards makes (mostly) non-vinifera wines in creative and attractive bottles, which are sure to get attention. Fox Run Vineyards is also well known and produces good wine.

White Wines

Hermann J. Wiemer, Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling 2003 (Finger Lakes)
Lively floral and honeyed flavors, crisp and sweet, exceptionally long finish. Very German-styled.
$20 / bottle

Castel Grisch, Johannisberg Riesling 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Off-dry with very prominent herbal flavors (almost sauvignon blanc) in addition to traditional fruit and nectar varietal flavors. Uncomplicated.
$8.50 / bottle

Fox Run Vineyards, Dry Riesling 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Very bold peach and citrus fruit with pleasant pear and nectar flavors. Good.
$10 / bottle

Hermann J. Wiemer, Johannisberg Riesling Semi-Dry 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Exceptionally crisp, slightly herbal, with a touch of grapefruit and sundry other flavors. Light.
$12 / bottle

Hermann J. Wiemer, Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Very bold forward tropical fruitiness, with a rich honey and nectarine flavor. Sweet and relatively light finish. Excellent quality. Similar in style to Dr. Loosen and other fruit-forward Mosel Rieslings.
$12 / bottle

Dr Konstantin Frank, "40th Anniversary" Chardonnay NV (Finger Lakes)
Slight oak, slightly spicy flavor.
$9-12 / bottle

Heron Hill, Semi-Dry Riesling 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Very light nectarine and citrus flavors with mild tropical fruit. Slick on the palate.
$9.50 / bottle

McGregor Vineyards, Gewurztraminer 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Flavorful earthy and spicy impression, with moderate oak influence. Tasty and lively.
$13 / bottle

Glenora, Seyval Blanc 2000 (Finger Lakes)
Medium body, dry, with pear and melon flavors. Very simplistic.
$8.50 / bottle

Widmer's Wine Cellars, Lake Niagara NV (Finger Lakes, Niagara)
Sweet, very simple, acid so strong it could scour teeth. Serve extremely chilled.
$5 / bottle

Red Wines

Bully Hill, Chambourcin 1999 (Finger Lakes)
Somewhat hollow, like shiraz with the guts taken out. Slightly spicy flavor, with smoke and oak influence, like a weak Rhone. May be palatable with light red pasta.

Castel Grisch, Baco Noir 2001 (Finger Lakes)
Very fruity, slightly peppery finish. Very soft and smooth, similar to shiraz but much lighter and simpler. Matches well with pasta.
$7.50 / bottle

Palmer, Merlot 1998 (Long Island North Fork)
Medium body, extremely strong smoky flavor, very spicy, far too tannic. Out of balance.
$15 / bottle