The Rest of the World
Wine is grown all over the world. Here are some wines from lesser-known regions.
Washington State
The irrigated desert regions of Washington State Columbia River Basin produces surprisingly high quality wine. Winemaking is relatively new here, but the Washington Wine Quality Alliance, a sort of industry cartel, enforces the strictest wine quality and labelling standards in the United States.
Two large producers dominate nationally distributed Washington wines: Chateau Ste Michelle and Columbia Crest, both in the Columbia Valley. Chateau Ste Michelle in particular is known for award-winning fine wines, such as their "Eroica" Riesling, a collaboration with Dr. Loosen of Germany.
Hogue Cellars, Merlot 1999 (Columbia Valley,
Washington)
Moderately spicy, some smoky oak flavor. A bit weak and muted.
$18 / bottle
Hogue Cellars, Late Harvest White Riesling 2001
(Columbia Valley, Washington)
Strong peach and apricot juice flavor with very light tangerine.
Sweet. Light dessert wine style.
$9 / bottle
Chateau Ste. Michelle, "Eroica"
Riesling 2001 (Columbia Valley)
Very sharp and crisp, with strong floral and apricot flavors and hint
of grape skin and mineral. Very dry, very high acid, lively
mouthfeel. Very lively.
$21 / bottle
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Johannisberg Riesling
2001 (Columbia Valley, Washington)
Extremely fruity, with grape, apple, pear, pineapple flavors. Very
good.
$12 / bottle
Columbia Crest, "Grand Estates"
Merlot 1999 (Columbia Valley, Washington)
Soft tannins, very strong wood spice. Simplistic.
$10 / bottle
Oregon
Oregon's wine industry is relatively young, but they are establishing a good reputation for Pinot Noir. Most wine is grown in the Willamette Valley.
Argyle, Pinot Noir 2000 (Willamette Valley,
Oregon)
Light fruit with firm tannins, with oolong tea, mint, and very light earth.
Pleasant.
$18 / bottle
Elk Cove, Pinot Noir 2001 (Willamette Valley,
Oregon)
Well balanced but tangy. Sharp fruit over salad greens. Dances on
the tongue.
$22 / bottle
Indiana
Indiana definitely isn't wine country; the summers are too humid and the winters aren't friendly. That doesn't stop a few producers from trying. Many Indiana wineries import some of their grapes from outside the state to help meet demand and to make varietals that do not grow well in Indiana.
Oliver, Merlot 2002 (USA)
Very round and juicy fruit, with mild smoky peppers. Very soft,
young, and excessively fruity.
$19 / bottle
Oliver, "Creekbend Vineyard Estate
Bottled" Chardonel 2002 (Indiana)
Tangy and fruity, with a short buttery finish. Like a sharp but
simplistic chardonnay.
$17 / bottle
Canada
In high-end wine, Canada is best known for ice wine.
Jackson-Triggs, "Proprietor's
Reserve" Vidal Icewine 2002 (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
Dense (but not overwhelming) sweetness with phenol, apricot, and
nectarine notes. Hints of tropical citrus or pineapple in an
ever-shifting fruit blend.
$19 / 187ml
Chile
Chile is an up and coming wine region, and is gaining great market penetration in the lower end fine wine market in the US (including the ubitquitous Concha y Toro varietal wines). Recently, Chile has attracted a great deal of interest from French winemakers and investors (their growing season is complementary with France's), and within a decade or two may start producing competitive world-class wines.
Casa Lapostolle, Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (Rapel
Valley)
Very fruity, apple and pineapple flavors, fairly strong acid, short
finish, and a touch light.
$9 / bottle
(oops) Cabernet Franc Carmenere 2006 (Central
Valley)
Dry but fruity, with strong grassy and herbacious notes. Mild but
plentiful tannin.
$10 / bottle
Los Vascos, Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
(Colchagua)
Plump plummy fruit with ripe cherries and bell peppers. Very soft and
smooth tannins, with a hint of smoked cheese. Delightful and
unusually sophisticated for its price point.
$9 / bottle
Concha y Toro, "Casillero del Diablo"
Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Central Valley)
Very biting, sharp grass and crunchy pepper, with moderate flavors of
roses and other flowers in the finish. Almost no fruit. Bone dry.
An ambitious attempt.
$9 / bottle
Casa Viva Pinot Noir 2002 (Casablanca
Valley)
Dark currant flavors with moderate tannin and bloody mouthfeel.
$7 / bottle
Casas del Bosque, Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
(Cachapoal Valley)
French-style, smooth and very full-bodied, tobacco and berry flavors,
huge nose, heavy oak. Good buy.
$9 / bottle
Casas del Bosque, Reserve Pinor Noir 2003
(Casablanca Valley)
Bright cherry flavors over light wood. Young and fruity.
$12 / bottle
Los Vascos, Cabernet Reserve 2001
(Colchagua)
Earthy tannins, smooth but moderately astringent and very muted fruit.
$16 / bottle
Hacinda Araucano, Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
(Colchagua Valley)
Bold with smooth tannin, bloodlike and astringent.
$12 / bottle
Carmen, Carmenere 2003 (Rapel
Valley)
Grassy and stemmy tannins over plump fruit.
$5 / bottle
Argentina
Argentina has one of the highest per capita wine consumption rates in the world. However, they aren't very well known for producing top quality wine. This situation may or may not change in the coming decades. Argentina's specialty varietal is Malbec, which tastes vaguely like Merlot or Cabernet.
Bodega Weinert, "Cavas de Weinert"
1997 (Mendoza)
Very fruity, fairly intense, spicy flavors. Numerous hints of
blackcurrant, berry, leather, and other complex flavors. Cabernet
Saivignon - Malbec - Merlot blend.
$18 / bottle
South Africa
During the Apartheid era, it was politically impossible to get South African wines in the United States. Now that Apartheid has ended, Americans are slowly being introduced to South African wines.
Glen Carlou, Chardonnay 2000 (Paarl)
Medium intensity, very dry but very buttery texture, strong oak and
vanilla flavors, with a medium to long oak finish. Regal.
$15 / bottle
KWV, Steen 2003 (Western Cape)
Plain, crisp acidic fruit, with pear and citrus and a tropical nose.
Balanced and refreshing but extremely simplistic.
$7.50 / bottle
Urbane, Shiraz 2003 (Western Cape)
Dense red fruit with moderate wood and smoky essences, almost Spanish.
$8 / bottle
Austria
Austrian wine has the misfortune to live in the shadow of Germany, but they grow certain varietals (especially Gruner Veltliner) that the Germans do not focus on.
Undhof Salomon, "Hochterrassen"
Gruner Veltliner 2001 (Kremstal, Niederosterreich)
Soft impression, slightly yeasty flavor, off-dry, and a very short
finish. Light pear and melon flavor, Very light even for white wine.
$10 / bottle
Weingut Allram, Gruner Veltliner
2002 (Kamptal)
Sharp with very smoky flavor. Grill-like.
$16 / bottle
Romania
Vampire, Pinot Noir 2002 (Regas /
Transylvania)
Dark cherry and plum fruit. Smooth but a little thin.
$8 / bottle
Bulgaria
I'm told that Bulgaria is actually a pretty big source for wine. Unfortunately it isn't always the best stuff.
Brezovo Winery, Mavrud 2004 (Tracia Valley,
Assenovgrad Region)
Moderate tannin with stemmy texture and flat fruit.
$9 / bottle
Armenia
Proshyan, "Pomegranate" Semi-Sweet
Red NV (Armenia)
Sweet grape and raisin, with light tannins.
$8 / bottle
Hungary
Egri Bikaver, "Bull's Blood" 2001
(Hungary)
Minimal fruit. Smoky, tannic, stemmy, and harsh.
$4 / bottle
Moldova
Granat, "Stradivari" 50/50
Cabernet/Merlot Off-Dry 1998 (Trifesti / S Moldova)
Cloyingly, almost artificially sweet, with round blackberry and grape
juice over wood. Violin bottle.
??
Greece
The ancient Greeks must have drunk great quantities of wine to see the strange things they did to name our constellations. Unfortunately, many centuries of Byzantine, Ottoman, and other foreign rule have all but erased the ancient traditions. The Greek wine industry has been making strides in putting itself back together and rediscovering the old ways over the last few decades.
Greek wine are made primarily from obscure local varietals. This gives Greek wines a uniqueness that the common international varietals can't do. One of the most common Greek wines is retsina, which is made with grape and pine resin, giving it an unusual flavor.
The Greek wine laws define several levels of quality, typical of most EU wine regulations. They are
- Onomasia Proelefseos Anoteras Piotitos (OPAP), roughly "Appellation of Origin of Superior Quality" in EU terms. Pink seal on neck of bottle.
- Onomasia Proelefseos Eleghomeni (OPE), equivalent to most appelation of origin designations. Blue seal on neck of bottle.
- Topikos Inos, roughly equivalent to the French Vin de Pays.
- Onomasia Kata Paradosi (OKP), which means "traditional appellation," is used for traditional wines like Retsina.
- Epitrapezios Inos, unregulated table wine. As with the Italian Super-Tuscans, many of the best nontraditional wines fall into this category.
Boutari, "Dionysos in
Winter" Moschofilero 2001 (OPAP Mantinia)
Smooth and buttery, with bright apple flavors, lively fruit and
flowers, and mineral. Slightly green, with faint melon and spice, and
a medium crisp finish. Pleasantly surprising.
$13 / bottle
Boutari, Retsina NV (OKP)
Watery, with strong camphor and pine essence. Unpleasant.
$5 / bottle
Lebanon
Chateau Kefraya, Red (Cabernet / Mourvedre /
Carignan / Grenache) 2000 (Bekaa Valley)
Dark plums and dates, with moderate oak and hints of leather, tar, and
tobacco. Very heady and astringent, meaty and substantive.
$20 / bottle
Israel
Yarden White Riesling 2003 (Galilee
Region)
Prominent and sharp fruit with moderate floral tones, refreshing
crispness, long finish.
$14 / bottle
Barkan, Petit Syrah 2004 (Dan)
Straight fruit with extremely lively mouthfeel and firm tannin.
$11 / bottle
Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Galilee
Region)
Strong forward and spicy fruit with green peppers. Light wood
treatment. Smooth. Strong varietal characteristics in the California
style.
$24 / bottle
Morocco
Les Trois Domaines, Guerrouane Rouge 2003 (AOG
Meknes)
Zesty fruity and spicy attack with little finish.
$10 / bottle
Sparkling
Banfi, Brut (Metodo Traditionale Classico) 1997
(Piedmont, Italy)
Effervescent, prominent toasty beer-line yeast flavor. Smooth and
creamy, with light pear and citrus flavors. High acid, long finish.
$18 / bottle
Segura Viudas, Cava Brut Reserva NV (Penedes,
Spain)
Coarse texture, rather light and simple grape and citrus flavors.
Somewhat acid and rather simple.
$9 / bottle
Chateau Frank, Brut 1997 (Finger Lakes,
NY)
Very effervescent, low acid, very buttery bread and toast flavors,
medium finish.
$20 / bottle
Chandon, Carneros Blanc de Noirs 397 NV
(Carneros, Napa Valley)
Effervescent, intense fruit and toasty yeast flavor. Prominent grape
and citrus with berry fruit.
$20 / bottle
Mumm, Carte Classique Extra Dry NV (Riems,
Champagne)
More delicate, wine-like flavor. Extremely lively cherry and
strawberry fruit flavor, balanced acid, and bread-like yeast.
Excellent mouth feel. Superior.
$44 / bottle
Moet & Chandon, White Star NV (Riems,
Champagne)
Very sharp and tart, with clean fruit and a touch of yeast.
$30 / bottle