Wines of Australia

Australia has been gaining popularity in recent years for bold, refreshing wines.

Most (70%) wine production is controlled by four very large companies: Southcorp, BRL Hardy, Orlando Wyndham, and Mildara Blass. Southcorp (owner of Penfolds, Lindemans, Wynns, and others) alone controls 30% of the nation's fine wine production.

Most wine from Australia comes from South and South Eastern Australia. Within this region are the Barossa and Clare Valley regions north of Adelaide, which are known for Shiraz, McLaren Vale immediately south, which is known for Sauvignon Blanc, Coonawarra in the south, which is known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, and Hunter Valley near Sydney, which is known for Chardonnay.

Aussie Style

Many grapes are grown in Australia, but without doubt the star is Shiraz (syrah), a French Rhone Valley grape. The Aussies produce a very bold, spicy, fruit-forward wine from either straight shiraz or a two or three way blend with other strong red grapes. Since Australia has no traditions to break, their winemakers are very free to experiment with new blends, new combinations, and new winemaking techniques.

Winemaking in Australia can be described as very "scientific" and "high-tech." Production is heavily mechanized, and the wine is made in sophisticated, temperature-controlled, laboratory-sampled modern facilities. Not being bound by tradition, Australian winemakers are quick to adopt and experiment with the latest scientific techniques and advances.

Furthermore, unlike most fine wine regions, Australian wines are frequently blended across regions and varietals, instead of the single-vineyard single varietal wines that typify most fine wine. In fact, the legendary Penfolds Grange (supposedly one of Australia's finest, fetching hundreds of dollars a bottle) is a multi-region South Australia blend of primarily Shiraz with some Cabernet. The large producers of Australia control vineyards in dozens of regions, enabling them to use blends in higher end wines.

The popularity of Australian red wine is easily attributed to their young, vibrant, and bold fruity style, and the refreshing change of pace that it brings from the tired old run of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The fact that they are also extremely affordable helps. Many of the newer Australian wines on the scene, however, are made in the "fruit bomb" style that emphasizes fruitiness and chuggability over depth. Although these wines never taste bad, they aren't that interesting either. Fortunately, they are usually cheap and are easy to spot by their trendy-looking labels.

New Zealand

New Zealand is not a part of Australia, but I include it here because the wine is noteworthy. For a country that has more sheep than people, it makes amazingly good Sauvignon Blanc. The New Zealand winemakers have latched onto this as "their" grape, and their wines are some of the finest exemplars of the taste and character of Sauvignon Blanc.

God knows if they bother to make anything else.

What's Good

Australia is famous for Shiraz, and the inexpensive production from Rosemount Estates is a good baseline to judge from. The Rosemount Shiraz is available everywhere and is consistently good at a low price point. You'll also see Wolf Blass, which produces excellent wine from many varietals; their style is a bit more intense and livelier.

Lindemans is another large, well-known winemaker. Their "Bin 65" Chardonnay appears on many people's lists of decent Chardonnays at absurdly low prices.

Penfolds is one of Australia's best known high end producers, and their midrange production, while not inexpensive, are very sophisticated.

As mentioned above, New Zealand, especially the Marlborough region of South Island, is renowned for Sauvignon Blanc. Give it a try.

Wine Comments

Australia

Penfolds, Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2002 (South Eastern Australia)
Very green apples, moderate to heavy oak, otherwise well-balanced.
$9 / bottle

McWilliam's, "Hanwood Estate" Chardonnay 2001 (South Eastern Australia)
Fruity apple and pear flavors with a slightly floral fragrance and buttery character. Balanced oak. Livelier than most chardonnay.
$9 / bottle

Lindemans, "Bin 65" Chardonnay 2002 (South Eastern Australia)
Very buttery and creamy texture, with good oak and vanilla flavors and slight herbal and citrus undertones. Good bargain.
$5 / bottle

Teal Lake Chardonnay 2005 (South Eastern Australia)
Rich and flavorful, with bright tropical fruit, strong citrus notes, and refreshing crispness. Some wood. Very full-bodied.
$13 / bottle

Peter Lehmann, "The Barossa" Botrytis Semillon 1999 (Barossa Valley)
Heady and overblown, with biting sweetness and petrol flavors.
$13 / 375ml

Southern Highland Wines, Golden Vale Botrytis Chardonnay 2004 (South Eastern Australia)
Sticky and spicy, with honeyed fruit and a slight damp mushroom taste.
$6 / 375ml

d'Arenberg, "The Footbolt" Shiraz 2000 (McLaren Vale)
Spicy and tannic, blood-thick, with strong leather and tobacco flavors. Dark, gothic, and rich.
$18 / bottle

Penfolds, "Thomas Hyland" Shiraz 2000 (South Australia)
Big, juicy dark berry and cherry fruit with heavy and lively spice. Rich coffee and leather flavors. Good value.
$13 / bottle

Penfolds, "Kalimna Bin 28" Shiraz 1997 (South Australia)
Big and monstrous, powerful jammy fruit with earthy and chocolate tones. Very dry, extremely rich. Moderate oak and light spice. A powerful but contemplative wine.
$23 / bottle

Rosemount, Orange Vineyard Shiraz 2000 (Orange / New South Wales)
Rich and dark, with berry, incense, wood, and tea. Very restrained cherry and plum fruit. Smooth tannin and a very long finish. Excellent.
$27 / bottle

Lindemans "Bin 50" Shiraz 2006 (South Eastern Australia)
Bright but simple fruit, consisting of plums, berries, and cherries, with a touch of smoke. Pleasant.
$6 / bottle

Australian Domaine Wines, "Alliance" Shiraz 1999 (South Australia)
Rich hickory smoked flavor backed by very forward jammy fruit. Medium to full body. Excellent.
$17 / bottle

Teal Lake, Shiraz 2005 (South Eastern Australia)
Simple fruit, moderate wood, chewy tannins. Heady but unremarkable.
$13 / bottle

Yellow Tail, Shiraz 2003 (South Eastern Australia)
Spiced fruity jam with vanilla, with a very slight touch of tobacco and plum. Simple but smooth.
$7 / bottle

Yalumba, Shiraz (95%) Viognier (5%) 2003 (Barossa)
Spicy and fruity nose, big chewy tannins and plump uncomplicated fruit, with a bold tobacco finish. Very crafted.
$18 / bottle

Piping Shrike, Shiraz 2002 (Barossa Valley)
Big, plummy fruit over potpourri and wood. Tannic and heady.
$14 / bottle

Rosemount Estate, Shiraz 2000 (Australia)
Very strong jammy fruit impression, with a spicy chocolate flavor. Hints of wood and earthy plum flavors.
$12 / bottle

Bleasdale "Mulberry Tree" Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Langhorne Creek)
Grassy vegetal nose with bell peppers and blackcurrant fruit. Massive wood that tastes like a mix of French and American oak, with musty wood shaving flavors. Long and heady finish.
$19 / bottle

The Little Penguin, Merlot 2003 (South Eastern Australia)
Forward fruit and plum with moderate wood. Heady but smooth.
$7 / bottle

Lindemans, Reserve Merlot 2001 (South Australia)
Very abundant plummy fruit and heavy wood with touches of cherries, stems, and spice.
$9 / bottle

Rosemount Estate, Pinot Noir 2001 (South Eastern Australia)
Big, bold cherry lipstick fruit over leafy tea. Moderate tannin.
$9.50 / bottle

Penfolds, "Koonunga Hill" Shiraz Cabernet 2002 (South Eastern Australia)
Deep plum and blackcurrant, with very mellow tannins. Smooth.
$10 / bottle

Black Swan, Shiraz Merlot (75/25) 2003 (South Eastern Australia)
Big juicy plum and grape, a bit biting. Simple.
$6 / bottle

Penfolds, "Rawson's Retreat" Merlot 2003 (South Eastern Australia)
Big, plump, and extremely extravagant "fruit bomb" style. Very soft. Minimal oak. Quaffable but rather simplistic.
$7 / bottle

Black Opal, Shiraz Cabernet 53/47 2001 (South Eastern Australia)
Plump and spicy, with a very strong grape skin flavor. Round plums and moderately heavy oak.
$11 / bottle

Penfolds, "Bin 2" Shiraz Mourvedre 60/40 2001 (South Eastern Australia)
Heavy mixed dark fruits and plum, with leather, tar, and licorice. More sharp than soft. Medium body.
$10 / bottle

Wolf Blass, Shiraz 2001 (South Australia)
Very forward date and prune fruit, with a zesty spice that dances on the tongue. Pleasant smoke and oak flavors. A good benchmark shiraz.
$14 / bottle

Wolf Blass, "Red Label" Shiraz (62%) Cabernet Sauvignon (38%) 2001 (South Australia)
Deep date and raisin flavor, rich and lush mouth feel. Light oak, very fruit forward.
$13 / bottle

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot 1998 (Coonawarra)
Deep opaque red color, medium body, very dry, very spicy peppery flavors and rich taste, with floral and berry background flavors over jammy fruit. Good.
$12 / bottle

Wynns Coonawarra Estate, Shiraz 2003 (Coonawarra)
Deep, spicy wood over dry grape and heady berry. Very astringent
$13 / bottle

Beckett's Flat, Cerise Rose 2004 (Margaret River)
Bright berries and currant and a touch of pepper. Off-dry with a hint of tartness. Cabernet-based.
$20 / bottle

Chambers, Rosewood Vineyards Muscat NV (Rutherglen)
Lovely oranges and peaches, rounded out with nuts and wood. Syrupy sweet and tasty.
$17 / 375ml

Benjamin, Australian Tawny Port NV (Mildara)
Sweet and heady, with nuts and moderate wood. Lighter in flavor and sweeter than many Portuguese tawnies.
$10 / bottle

New Zealand

Omaka Springs, Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (Marlborough)
Medium body, grassy citrus and pineapple flavors, smooth, medium finish. Good, balanced Sauvignon Blanc.
$18 / bottle

Seresin, Sauvignon Blanc 2001 (Marlborough)
Crisp kiwi and starfruit with moderate oak. Light green pepper and grass flavors complement grapefruit citrus. Sophisticated but enjoyable. Very good.
$22 / bottle

Trinity Hill, Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (Shepherd's Croft / Hawkes Bay)
Crisp and sharp, with balanced starfruit and passionfruit with grass and celery. High acid.
$16 / bottle

Matua Valley, Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (Marlborough)
Soft and smooth texture, powerful tropical fruit flavors, vibrant kiwi and starfruit. Slightly spicy.
$11 / bottle

Nobilo, "Regional Collection" Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (Marlborough)
Smooth plump fruit, very sharp grassy attack, starfruit and citrus flavors. Mellow finish.
$9 / bottle

Villa Maria, "Private Bin First Release" Sauvignon Blanc 2002 (Marlborough)
Tangerine and starfruit flavors over a leafy, vegetal base, backed up by kiwi, passionfruit, and lime. Very tropical nose. Very young and slightly pungent. Exeuberantly overenthusiastic.
$14 / bottle

Wairau River, Sauvignon Blanc 1997 (Marlborough)
Very rich and deep, overripe fruit. Slight grassiness and tropical flavors. Extremely restrained. Very Bordeaux style.
$19 / bottle