Kosher Wines
Huge Giant Disclaimer: Although I am Jewish, I am not a rabbi and no great authority on matters of Jewish law. If you are serious about keeping kosher with wines, please consult your rabbi. If you are a rabbi and wish to correct my information, I'd be glad to learn.
A common misconception is that Kosher is a style of wine. This is not so. Any style of wine can be made kosher if it was prepared in accordance with Jewish dietary laws, in the same way that Tex-Mex food could be kosher if it was prepared right with kosher ingredients. You can find kosher Bordeaux, kosher Burgundy, kosher Italian wines, kosher Champagne, and more.
More generally, there are a great many misconceptions among us gentiles about what kosher-certified food is. The most common one is that it is "blessed" by a rabbi. This is simply not so; there is no religious blessing involved in certifying a food product as kosher. Certification only ensures that the food has been prepared in accordance with Jewish dietary laws. Saying that the rabbi blesses the food is like saying that the USDA blesses steaks. Certification and compliance inspection is a more accurate description of what is going on, even though the rules themselves are religious in origin.
What is Kosher Wine?
Making wines kosher imposes several additional rules:
- The vines must be at least four years old (Israel only).
- The vineyard must be left fallow once every seven years (Israel only).
- Only vines (and not other agricultural plants) may be grown in the vineyard (Israel only).
- All equipment and machines involved must be kosher (so they cannot be used to make non-kosher wine on the side).
- Only Sabbath-observant Jews are allowed to handle the wine through the entire production process unless the wine is mevushal (pasteurized).
- All ingredients and fining agents must be kosher. This means kosher yeast. This also means no use of (non-kosher) gelatin, casein, blood, isinglass, and other substances for fining and filtering, as all of these are outright treyf (non-kosher) or can cause interesting complications ("dairy" wine in the case of casein) for the kashrut of the resulting wine. Kosher winemakers typically use bentonite (clay) for fining.
Israel is treated differently from other countries because the relevant agricultural regulations in halacha (Jewish law) are different for the Promised Land. These extra rules obviously do not apply outside Israel. The most active area for wine cultivation in Israel is around the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights (while the political status of the Golan Heights is contested, it is a part of Biblical Israel and I'd guess that the restrictions would apply there regardless of which nation happens to control it today).
The reason why Sabbath-observant Jews are the only ones allowed to make kosher wine stems from sacramental use of wine. There were good reasons for not wanting to use wine that could have been used in pagan religious activities. Since non-Jews couldn't be completely trusted to manage this, supervision is required to guarantee that the wine is safe and untampered.
Most kosher wine is made mevushal (pasteurized). The wine is pasteurized either before (for white) or after (for red) fermentation. This is done very quickly and generally without actually boiling the wine. Mevushal wine can be handled by non-Jewish truckers, store clerks, friends, etc, and still retain kosher status. According to Jewish law, the pasteurization/cooking process renders wine unsuitable for idolatrous libations. While historic techniques actually boil the wine and thus greatly (and very negatively) alter the flavor, studies conducted by the University of California at Davis have concluded that modern flash-pasteurization techniques do not have an impact on taste in blind tasting.
Note that kosher wine served at catered events in almost always mevushal. According to the strict Orthodox position, an opened bottle of non-mevushal kosher wine ceases to be kosher if it is directly handled by a non-Jew. Since waitstaff and guests at events like bar mitzvahs and weddings often include many non-Jews, the wine must be mevushal so that it can be served by and for non-Jews without rendering it unkosher.
The most common kosher symbol on wine (and many other foods) is the U inside a circle, the symbol of the Union of Orthodox Jewish Congregations of America (Orthodox Union). You may also see the K inside a star, the symbol of the Star-K Kosher Certification Agency. Smaller wineries are often certified by local organizations; look for the appropriate English/Hebrew writing (you'll often find the name of the rabbi responsible here). In any case, if you're an observant Jew, you probably already know how to look for a proper hechsher (sign of rabbinic approval).
Conservative and Reform leniencies
We use "kosher wines" to refer to supervised wines that are kosher according to Orthodox standards; this is the common understanding of the term anyway. However, Conservative Judaism differs from Orthodox practice in that they consider all wines to be, if not completely kosher, at least not unkosher and thereby permitted for regular consumption. Regular wines, of course, are not normally refered to as "kosher wines" by anyone; however, the Conservative movement does permit their use is otherwise "kosher" (by Conservative standards) homes.
As far as the rules go, the two main obstacles for kosher certification are the use of fining agents and the requirement of Jewish supervision. The Conservative movement has found reasons to hold that wines that do not satisfy either of these conditions are "kosher" (or at least not unkosher) as well. This leniency is adopted by the Conservative and Reform movements (but not Orthodox!); in practice, this means that virtually all wine made in the Western world is "kosher" (except for Passover).
The CJLS approved a teshuva by Rabbi Isaac Silverman on this topic in 1964. Rabbi Elliot Dorff revisited this topic in 1985 and this position remains standard today. Rabbi Dorff's paper considers a number of issues in wine production, including the use of non-kosher fining and filtering agents. Despite these possibilities, the paper states that uncertified wines are still kosher:
Even though restricting one's own home use to rabbinically certified wines is preferable, those who use uncertified wines in their homes should not thereby be considered Jews who do not keep kosher.
The main gist of the argument is that with regards to fining agents, the agents are added with the intention of clarifying the wine as opposed to halachically nullifying the fining agent itself, so there is plenty of halachic precedent to consider it kosher. As for the rabbinic prohibitions on wine touched by gentiles or made by gentiles, the original concerns about idolatry are non-issues today in the Western world (even Orthodox authorities, going as far back as Maimonides, do not consider Christians to be idolators) and the probihition does nothing to discourage interaction and intermarriage with gentiles (another cited motivation).
However, even though the other considerations can be argued away in accordance with Jewish law, their existence makes it preferable to use only certified kosher wines for sacramental purposes:
In light of the questions raised about uncertified wine, however, it should certainly be a standard for our movement that only certified wines be used for sacramental purposes - kiddush, the seder, etc. - at home as well as in the synagogue.
See Elliot Dorff, "On the Use of All Wines" YD 123:1.1985
With regard to wines and kashrut in general, Reform does not consider halacha to be binding anyway, so it is a moot point, especially for those who eat bacon...
As far as I know, all kosher certification is performed by Orthodox authorities and none of them take advantage of any of these leniencies, so the kashrut of certified wines is beyond question.
Again, I emphasize that if you keep kosher and wish to take advantage of this position, you should discuss this with your rabbi. There are numerous opinions, and as Rabbi Moline famously said, "Everyone who keeps kosher will tell you that his version is the only correct version. Everyone else is either a fanatic or a heretic" (that's why you should ask your rabbi and not just some random guy on the Internet).
Why is it so Sweet?
As mentioned above, kosher wine does not have to be sweet. However, a lot of kosher wine on the market is extremely sweet. This is due to historical reasons. When the Jews first emigrated to New York, the only grape they had for winemaking was the Concord Grape. The Concord Grape is terrible for wine; it does not have adequate natural sugar and large quantities of sugar must be added to get it to ferment right. The resulting wine is disgustingly sweet and tastes not unlike Concord Grape Jam, which isn't that different. This sweet style has become entrenched in American Jewish culture, and amazingly enough, there are many Jews who actually like this stuff...
Incidentally, my best guess at the difference between the kosher-for-Passover Manischewitz and the non-kosher-for-Passover version is corn syrup (which is kitnyos and hence forbidden for Passover for the Ashkenazim) versus beet or cane sugar. Fine wines should not have this issue as sugar is not normally added, so there would be no special Pesach issues anyway.
I strongly recommend avoiding these sweet wines. You may wish to try a bottle or two (they tend to be very cheap) out of curiosity, but believe me, it's not very good. If you are having difficulty finishing it, try mixing it with soda. In any case, there's lots of good kosher wine out there, so why settle?
Wine Comments
These wine comments appear elsewhere on my site, under their respective countries, but are copied here for your convenience. Try something tasty for your next simcha or shabbat!
Manischewitz Concord Grape (USA) (Mevushal)
Incredibly sweet but still a touch bitter. Fairly vile.
$3 / bottle
Kedem Concord Grape (USA) (Mevushal)
Sweet and juicy, but somewhat hollow. Soft grape juice. Not vile.
$4 / bottle
Baron Herzog, Merlot 2004 (Central
Coast, California) (Mevushal)
Straightforward fruit with slight hints of cherry. Moderate wood.
Slightly watery mouthfeel and somewhat hollow tannins.
$12 / bottle
Carmel Vineyards Selected Merlot 2004
(Dan, Israel) (Not Mevshal)
Juicy and smoky, with generous wood, tobacco, incense, and berries.
Medium body, easy drinking, and tasty.
$10 / bottle
Barkan, Merlot 2003 (Galil, Israel)
(Mevushal)
Plump and juicy fruit, with spicy wood and soft tannins. Very forward
flavors but light mouthfeel.
$11 / bottle
Noah Winery "Tevel" Cabernet
Sauvignon 2005 (Judean Hills, Israel) (Mevushal)
Juicy but not excessive fruit with berries, moderate vanilla wood, and
bell peppers. Tasty.
$16 / bottle
Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Galilee
Region, Israel) (Not Mevushal)
Strong forward and spicy fruit with green peppers. Light wood
treatment. Smooth. Strong varietal characteristics in the California
style.
$24 / bottle
Carmel "Private Collection" Merlot
2005 (Judean Hills, Israel) (Mevushal)
Intense pepper and spicy wood over robust fruit, tea, and tobacco.
Spicy, big and bold.
$17 / bottle
Golan Heights Winery "Gamla" Merlot
2003 (Galilee, Israel) (Not Mevushal)
Fruity and spicy, with abundant oak and herbal and floral notes. Soft
velvety tannins.
$19 / bottle
Barkan, Petit Syrah 2004 (Dan, Israel)
(Mevushal)
Straight fruit with extremely lively mouthfeel and firm tannin.
$11 / bottle
Teal Lake, Shiraz 2005 (South Eastern
Australia) (Mevushal)
Simple fruit, moderate wood, chewy tannins. Heady but unremarkable.
$13 / bottle
Herzog Selection, Brouilly 2002 (AOC
Brouilly, Beaujolais, France) (Mevushal)
Strawberry nose and flavors with rich tannins upon opening up.
$18 / bottle
Abarbanel "Aude Valley Estate"
Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Vin de Pays de l'Aude, France) (Mevushal)
Dark and smoky, with abundant wood, tobacco, and potpourri. Average
tannins and medium-full body.
$14 / bottle
Abarbanel, "Efron's Cave" Cabernet /
Merlot / Shiraz 2003 (Judean Hills, Israel) (Mevushal)
Light wood and lively but straight fruit. Soft and smooth tannins
with mushrooms on the nose and palate. Bone dry yet soft, and
surprisingly fun.
$13 / bottle
Noah Winery, "Gedeon" Petit Syrah
2005 (Judean Hills, Israel) (Mevushal)
Big juicy fruit with plums, cherries, and berries over moderate wood. Light
potpourri secondary flavors. Soft and
smooth tannins, very easy drinking, but short finish.
$15 / bottle
Terroso, Malbec 2006 (Mendoza, Argentina)
(Mevushal)
Forward plummy fruit and moderate wood. Heady. Soft tannins and
medium body.
$11 / bottle
Beckett's Flat, Cerise Rose 2004 (Margaret
River, Australia) (Mevushal)
Bright berries and currant and a touch of pepper. Off-dry with a hint
of tartness. Cabernet-based.
$20 / bottle
Golan, Moscato 2006 (Galilee, Israel) (Not
Mevushal)
Sweet and effervescent, bursting with powerful peaches and apricots with faint
hints of green fruit in the Moscato d'Asti style. Crisp and
refreshing, without stickiness despite its sweetness. Very delightful
and actually quite a bit better than most Moscato d'Asti.
$12 / bottle
Noah, Muscat 2005 (Judean Hills, Israel)
(Mevushal)
Lively, spicy attack with dense and heady floral and grape essences
and loads of honeysuckle and botrytis flavor.
High alcohol. Heavy and sweet finish. Tastes more like Sauternes
than Moscatel, but slightly lighter.
$16 / 500ml
Bartenura, Moscato 2006 (IGT Provincia di
Pavia, Italy) (Mevushal)
Effervescent peach and honey, thin fruit, short finish.
$13 / bottle
Bartenura, Moscato 2005 (IGT Provincia di
Pavia, Italy) (Mevushal)
Light and fizzy, faint and simple fruit and moderate sweetness. Short finish.
$12 / bottle
Herzog Selection "Chateneuf" Bordeaux
2006 (white) (AOC Bordeaux, France) (Mevushal)
Muted grapefruit, peach, and melon. Very pleasant buttery and
semi-sweet mouthfeel.
$11 / bottle
Barkan "Classic" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
(Adulam, Israel) (Mevushal)
Plump and heavy, with a slightly buttery mouthfeel and noticable
wood. Uncomplicated fruit.
$11 / bottle
Baron Herzog, Chenin Blanc 2006
(Clarksburg, CA) (Mevushal)
Light citrus and strong slate character.
Plump and bloated on the finish.
$10 / bottle
Baron Herzog, Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (Central
Coast, California) (Mevushal)
Sharp citrus with faint hints of fruit and minimal grass. Fat and
bloated mouthfeel.
$10 / bottle
Teal Lake Chardonnay 2005 (South Eastern
Australia) (Mevushal)
Rich and flavorful, with bright tropical fruit, strong citrus notes,
and refreshing crispness. Some wood. Very full-bodied.
$13 / bottle
Abarbanel, Aude Valley Estate Chardonnay 2003
(Vin de Pays de l'Aude, France) (Mevushal)
Bright tropical fruit and green apples, buttery mouthfeel. Minimal
wood. Extremely crisp and refreshing, very pure flavors, pleasant.
$16 / bottle
Fortant, Kosher Chardonnay 2003 (Vin de Pays
d'Oc) (Mevushal)
Plump and very buttery, surprisingly fat for light wood. Otherwise
unremarkable.
$10 / bottle
Abarbanel, Riesling 2004 (AOC
Alsace, France) (Mevushal)
Dry with strong fragrant flower flavors. Clean.
$21 / bottle
Rashi, Moscato d'Asti 2005 (DOCG Moscato
d'Asti, Italy) (Mevushal)
Sweet and fruity nectarine, orange, and honey flavors. Pleasant.
$13 / bottle
Yarden, White Riesling 2003 (Galilee
Region, Israel) (Not Mevushal)
Prominent and sharp fruit with moderate floral tones, refreshing
crispness, long finish.
$14 / bottle
Bartenura, Moscato d'Asti 2001 (DOCG
Asti, Italy) (Mevushal)
Very melony fruit, very sweet, almost syrup in texture. More like a
good dessert wine.
$10 / bottle
Bartenura, Moscato d'Asti 2003 (DOCG
Asti, Italy) (Mevushal)
Light and fizzy, with very sweet peach and apricot with a touch of
mineral.
$12 / bottle
Hagafen, Brut Cuvee 1997 (Napa
Valley, California) (Mevushal)
Juicy apple flavor over a crisp effervescent base. Minimal yeast.
Tasty.
$26 / bottle
Abarbanel, Cremant d'Alsace Brut NV (AOC
Cremant d'Alsace, France) (Mevushal)
Herbal and tropical nose with bright citrus flavors. Crisp, minimal
yeast flavors, and fine bubbles.
$21 / bottle
Baron Herzog, American Champagne Brut NV
(USA) (Mevushal)
Dark apple and yeast flavors. Large soda-like bubbles. Unimpressive.
$11 / bottle
Kedem Champagne NV (New York) (Mevushal)
Bitter and unbalanced, with a strong grain alcohol nose. Unpleasant.
$8 / bottle