Wines of the Iberian Peninsula
Spain and Portugal are famous for the two standard fortified wines, Sherry and Port. Lately, Spanish Rioja has been gaining popularity as a high quality red wine.
Spain
Spain is best known for fortified Sherry and red Rioja on the export market. There might be some other stuff as well, but they are harder to find on store shelves.
The Rioja region is the best known region, and produces high quality red wine from Tempranillo and other grapes. Rioja is regarded as Spain's best red wine production. In addition to the regulatory designations, you may also see the terms Vina de Crianza (aged two years, at least one of which is in oak), Reserva (aged at least one year in oak followed by two in bottle), and Gran Reserva (aged at least two years in oak and three in bottle, plus one more year in either oak or bottle).
The Riax Baixas region is best known for Albarino based white wine. Some people suspect that Albarino originates from the Rhine and was brought over a thousand years ago, as the varietal characteristics bear some resemblance to the common German varietals.
The Penedes region is best known for Cavas, a Champagne-like sparkling wine (Freixenet is Cavas). It also produces table wine from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, and other standard varietals. Torres, one of Spain's largest producers, is here.
The Spanish regulatory system goes from Vino de Mesa (table wine), to Vino de la Tierra, to Denominacion de Origen (DO; a quality regional wine designation), to the highest Denominacion de Origen Calificada (DOCa).
Sherry
Sherry comes from Jerez and is a fortified wine (fortified with grape brandy) made from Pedro Ximinez, Palomino, and Moscatel grapes. It may or may not be sweet, and the color ranges from light yellow to deep brown. Sherry has a distinctive strange woody oxidized flavor that is unlike any other wine (if your old Chardonnay starts tasting like Sherry, it means it has gone bad).
There are several distinct classes of sherry spanning a broad range in strength and development. An important factor in some sherries is flor, which is the yeast that floats on the surface during fermentation. Sherries are fermented with significant air exposure, unlike every other wine in existence. This accounts (partially) for its unusual flavor.
From lightest color to darkest, we have:
- Fino
- This is light yellow in color and very dry, with full flor development during fermentation.
- Manzanilla
- This is Fino aged by the sea in Sanlucar de Barrameda. They say you can taste the salty influence of the sea air...
- Amontillado
- This is deeper and darker in color, but permits only partial flor development. The concerns raised in Edgar Allen Poe's short story about a Cask of Amontillado are unfounded in real life.
- Oloroso
- Deep brown in color, oloroso is full bodied and anywhere from dry to somewhat sweet. No flor.
- Cream
- Cream Sherry is oloroso that is sweetened with sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes (not quite raisins, but close). It is very sweet and is usually served as dessert wine.
Sherry is not made vintage; the process involves rotating each year's wine through blending and aging with the previous decade or so; the result is wine that comes from a dozen years, added successively, and aged together.
Portugal
Portugal produces a variety of red and white wines, which aren't terribly well known because everyone wants Port, the great fortified wine of Portugal.
In Portugal, the wine regulations include Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC; the best), Indicacao de Proveniencia Regulamentada (IPR; a lesser designation), and Vinho Regional (large named region designation). Vinho Regional is not necessarily the lowest designation as the appellation borders are kind of funny, and Vinho Regional allows blending from a broader region that makes more sense. Port has its own set of rules.
All About Port
Port (Porto) is a fortified wine that is produced in the Duoro region in northern Portugaul. The fermentation process is stopped prematurely by the addition of brandy, resulting in high residual sugar and about 20% alcohol.
Port tastes sweet but intense, and very heady due to the high alcohol level. It is a deep purple color.
There are numerous levels of Port. Most port is a blend of grapes from several years, but you can also find vintage port on the more upscale end of things. The designations you'll commonly see are:
- Ruby
- This is young port, aged about 3 years.
- Tawny
- This is a blending of older, mature wood-aged ports
- Colheita
- This is port from one vintage aged seven years in wood
- Vintage
- This is port made entirely from grapes in one year, and bottled after two years in wood. Vintage port should be allowed to age in the bottle for a couple decades before consumption. A producer might not make a vintage port for every year; this is done only on good years.
Vintage port can be very expensive, so watch out.
You'll notice that many port producers have decidedly English-sounding names like Sandeman and Cockburn. This is because the Brits love port, and import it in large quantities, and set up companies to manage production and importation hundreds of years ago.
Wine Comments
Spain
Marques de Caceres, Rioja Blanco 2007
(DOCa)
Very fruity, dry, and crisp, with abundant citrus and pineapples.
$7 / bottle
Marques de Caceres, Rioja Blanco 2000
(DOCa)
Light and crisp fruit flavors, no oak, and a slight citrus and yeast
flavor. Relatively simple.
$7 / bottle
Vicente Gandia "Fusta Nova" Moscatel
2004 (DO Valencia)
Sweet nectar, white raisins, and almonds. Heady and rich.
$13 / 500ml
Oro Penedes Hill, Muscat-Xarel.lo 2004 (DO
Penedes)
Blend of Parellada/Macabeo/Xarel.lo/Muscat 20/20/25/35. Riesling-like
floral fruit, light tropical hints, slightly sweet, very short and
watery finish.
$8 / bottle
Lagar de Cervera, Albarino 2000, Riax Baixas
(DO)
Light, smooth, fruity, with grape, pineapple, citrus, and other
tropical flavors. Medium finish. Uncomplicated.
$15 / bottle
Bodegas Santo Cristo, Moscatel Ainzon NV (DO
Campo de Borja)
Dense, sweet peach, melons, honey, and nectar. Thick texture, bright on the
tongue, heady.
$14 / bottle
Torres, "Coronas" Tempranillo 2000
(DO Catalunya)
Thick, jammy texture, with mushroom and leather flavors. Claret
style. Tasty.
$10 / bottle
GranRojo, Garnacha 2005 (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla)
Bold plummy fruit, international style, firm stemmy tannins.
$12 / bottle
Abrazo, Garnacha 2005 (DO Carinena)
Forward fruit, stemmy tannins, bloody mouthfeel like Sangre
de Toro but not as approachable. Rough and harsh.
$7 / bottle
Cruz de Piedra, Garnacha 2005 (DO
Calatayud)
Bold and spicy with long tannins and very pure fruit.
$8 / bottle
Tapena, Garnacha 2005 (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla)
Dry and fruity with light incense and smoke flavors. Tasty.
$8 / bottle
Torres "Sangre de Toro" 2004 (DO
Catalunya)
Dark fruit and strong but not overpowering tannins with leather and
oak notes. Very dry but very easy drinking.
$7 / bottle
Marques de Arienzo, Rioja Crianza 1999
(DOCa)
Biting attack, with strong wood ash flavor and very plummy fruit.
Warm and heady.
$11 / bottle
Bodegas Palacio, "Cosme Palacio y
Hermanos" Rioja Crianza, 1997 (DOCa)
Fruity with dark incense and smoke flavors with spicy wood. Medium
body and intensity, with fascinating cherry and blackberry fruit.
Soft, with a medium finish.
$10 / bottle
Marques del Puerto, Rioja Reserva 1996
(DOCa)
Spicy, heavily oaked chocolate wood. Deep musky aroma with incense
and some astringency.
$19 / bottle
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja Crianza 2000
(DOCa)
Racy cherry, tea, and leather. Rather astringent, with prominent
spicy oak. Warming.
$9 / bottle
Castillo Perelada, Reserva 2000 (DO Emporada
Costa Brava)
Rich smoke and incense nose with supple dark fruit and smooth mouthfeel,
serious but still easy drinking. Excellent and accessible.
$14 / bottle
Borsao, "Tres Picos" Garnacha 2003 (DO
Campo de Borja)
Strong and bracingly tannic, dry and bloody.
$13 / bottle
Riscal, Tempranillo 2001 (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla y Leon)
Dark and smoky, with tea and mint tones over heavy earth.
$10 / bottle
Alvear, Solera 1927 Pedro Ximinez (DO Montilla
Moriles)
Pure liquid raisins, heady with a nutty wood feel.
$21 / 375ml
Gonzalez Byass "Nectar" Pedro Ximinez
Sweet Sherry (DO Jerez Manzanilla)
Dark and syrupy sweet raisins with toasty nuts and faint mushrooms.
Powerful and sweet, very rich, long finish.
? / bottle
Wisdom and Warter, Extra Amontillado
Sherry
Strong nutty flavor, and a primary flavor best described as shitake
mushroom. Long and lingering. Very strong and intense.
$11 / bottle
Domecq, Medium Dry Amontillado Sherry
Off-dry, with a deep toasty wood flavor and roasted almonds.
$13 / bottle
Lustau, "Capataz Andres" Solera
Reserve Cream Sherry
Rich nutty flavor, with strong wood undertones. Thick, syrupy
texture, very intense and alcoholic.
$14 / bottle
Segura Viudas, Cava Brut Reserva NV (Penedes,
Spain)
Coarse texture, rather light and simple grape and citrus flavors.
Somewhat acid and rather simple.
$9 / bottle
Portugal
Dom Martinho, Quinto do Carmo, Alentejano 1997
(Vinho Regional)
Muted fruit, with a slightly spicy and astringent impression. Light
wood flavors with berry fruit dominate. Medium to full body, and
slight potential for aging.
$10 / bottle
Messias, Douro Reserva 1999 (DOC Douro)
Old and leathery, with pepper notes and dense earth and tar and a
touch of licorice. Chewy and pleasant, but with a surprisingly short
finish.
$10 / bottle
JP Azeitao, Setubal Peninsula Vinho Regional
Terras do Sado 2004
Cloyingly soft and mellow, with simple tannin and fruit and a dry
mouthfeel.
$7 / bottle
Famega, Vinho Verde "bottled 2004" NV
(DOC Vinho Verde)
Very effervescent, high acid, brutally tart but not unpleasant, with
Champagne-like yeast and honeysuckle notes.
$5 / bottle
Arca Nova, Vinho Verde 2002 (DOC Vinho
Verde)
Light and effervescent, with bracing acidity and tart crispness. A
touch biting and green. Requires food.
$7 / bottle
Cockburn, Special Reserve Porto, NV
Sweet grape and raisin flavor, exceptionally smooth. Heady and
strong, with a raisin and date finish.
$15 / bottle
Taylor Fladgate, 20 Year Tawny Porto NV
Dense raisin, date, and nuts over moderate wood. Smooth.
$50 / bottle
Warre's "Heritage" Ruby Porto
NV
Fruity dark raisins, light wood. Dry and spicy. Very heady and alcoholic.
$12 / bottle
Warre, 20 Year Tawny Porto NV
Off-dry, rich raisins and dates over intense wood. Heady.
$45 / bottle
Warre's, "Warrior" Special Reserve
Porto, NV
Raisin and plum, with prune and wood incense notes.
$16 / bottle